How a Lab Discovery Changed the Way We Feel Makeup: The Science Behind Cooling Setting Sprays

Multiple cosmetics and make up and a lab grade plate with a multichannel pipet

If you’ve ever spritzed on Urban Decay’s All Nighter or a Skindinavia setting spray and felt that instant cooling mist, that sensation isn’t just refreshing. It’s science at work. 

After 15 years of collaborative innovation, Skindinavia and Urban Decay parted ways in a move that shook loyal fans and industry insiders alike. The breakup was more than just a brand split; it spotlighted how a single, science-powered sensory experience can drive customer trust and reshape a category. 

The cool you can feel

At some point, makeup setting spray went from “extra” to essential. Because let’s be honest — wearing foundation all day, especially in summer, can feel heavy and sticky.

You know what feels cool? Menthol.

That familiar chill happens because menthol activates TRPM8, a sensory receptor in the skin that responds to cold temperatures. When menthol binds to it, the channel opens and tricks your skin into thinking it’s cooler than it really is.

But here’s the problem: menthol-based ingredients are often too strong, too minty, or too unstable in water-based makeup formulas.

That’s where Skindinavia’s scientists saw an opportunity: deliver that fresh, cooling feeling without irritation or fragrance. They went to the lab to find a molecule that could trick the skin’s “cool sensors” in a clean, consistent way.

How Scientists Found the Perfect Cool

Using high-throughput screening, researchers tested thousands of compounds for the same receptor menthol activates. One molecule stood out (we call them "hits"): Methyl diisopropyl propionamide, better known as WS-23. 

WS-23 gives a clean, fresh sensation without scent, doesn’t irritate skin, and stays stable even in alcohol-water formulas (vs. menthol is volatile). In other words, the perfect fit for a fine mist setting spray.

Skindinavia patented the way they used this cooling molecule and partnered with Urban Decay to launch All Nighter. That refreshing spritz became the brand’s signature feel, being instantly recognizable and tied to performance.

When Science Meets Beauty, the Market Responds

The global setting spray market now tops $200 million and continues to grow as consumers look for “experience-based skincare” that feels luxurious and delivers visible results. Cooling technology is now used in primers, serums, masks, and sunscreens to enhance comfort and boost perceived efficacy.

That cool mist isn’t just a gimmick. It feels refreshing, especially in the summer, and makes your makeup routine a little more satisfying.

Why Science-Backed Skincare Brands Are Winning

The success of WS-23 shows how science-backed innovation creates emotional and sensory connections with consumers. Today’s buyers want products that work and have data behind them. When brands invest in real research; molecular discovery, formulation chemistry, clinical testing.

Science isn’t just a story for the lab anymore. It’s what builds trust, retention, and long-term brand equity. Patents also add tangible intellectual property value, strengthening the business behind the innovation. (Take a peak of the patent application filed by Skindinavia Inc. in 2011.)

 

Here are more areas where HTS is utilized for skincare/ regenerative medicine fields & Why it matters:

HTS lets brands move from traditional “trial-and-error” formulation to data-driven, science-backed products. Consumers increasingly demand measurable efficacy, and HTS accelerates that discovery timeline.

 

1. Anti-Aging & Collagen Boosters

Goal: Find molecules that stimulate fibroblasts, boost collagen, or reduce wrinkles.

HTS Example:

  • Peptide discovery: Companies like Pentapharm and DSM have used HTS to screen thousands of peptides for their ability to induce collagen I & III synthesis in fibroblast cultures.
  • Small molecules: Screening natural extracts or synthetic small molecules for MMP inhibition (matrix metalloproteinases degrade collagen) is another common HTS application.

Impact: Leads to topical formulations that improve skin elasticity, reduce fine lines, and increase dermal density.

2. Anti-Inflammatory and Barrier Repair Compounds

Goal: Identify compounds that reduce irritation, strengthen the skin barrier, or calm sensitive skin.

HTS Example:

  • Screening compounds for NF-kB inhibition or IL-1/IL-6 reduction in keratinocyte or skin explant models.
  • Cosmetic application: Brands like La Roche-Posay and Avène have leveraged similar research pipelines to validate actives that soothe reactive skin.

Impact: Enables development of hypoallergenic products and barrier-repair creams that can be marketed with science-backed claims.

3. Pigmentation & Brightening Agents

Goal: Find molecules that reduce melanin production or even skin tone.

HTS Example:

  • Screening compounds against tyrosinase activity in melanocyte cell lines.
  • Several natural and synthetic compounds (kojic acid derivatives, arbutin analogues) were identified through HTS for their skin-brightening potential.

Impact: Results in safer, more effective brightening serums and creams with clinical data.

4. Stem Cell & Regenerative Medicine Applications

Goal: Promote skin regeneration, wound healing, or hair follicle growth.

HTS Example:

  • Induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSCs) or mesenchymal stem cells screened for molecules that enhance proliferation, migration, or differentiation.
  • Regenerative skin patches / wound healing: Companies like Histogen and RepliCel use HTS to find peptides or growth factor mimetics that improve dermal regeneration and hair growth.

Impact: Potential to create products or therapies that accelerate wound healing, promote tissue repair, or rejuvenate aged skin.

5. UV Protection & DNA Repair

Goal: Identify compounds that protect skin cells from UV-induced DNA damage.

HTS Example:

  • Screening libraries of antioxidants, small molecules, or plant extracts on keratinocytes exposed to UVB, measuring CPD (cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer) repair or ROS scavenging.
  • Some peptides and enzymatic formulations that boost nucleotide excision repair in skin cells have emerged this way.

Impact: Leads to next-generation sunscreens and anti-photoaging products that do more than just block UV; they actively repair damage.

6. Sensory & Neuromodulatory Molecules

Goal: Identify molecules that affect sensory perception (cooling, warming, tingling) or reduce irritation.

HTS Example:

  • WS-series cooling agents like WS-3 or WS-23 are classic examples, screened for TRPM8 activation.
  • Similarly, capsaicin analogs or TRPV1 modulators are screened to develop warming creams, analgesic gels, or anti-itch formulations.

Impact: Creates multisensory experiences in cosmetic and therapeutic products that differentiate brands.

The Takeaway

A single molecule found through high-throughput screening helped redefine how setting sprays feel and perform. It turned a basic finishing step into a multisensory experience that built an entire product category.

That’s the power of science in beauty. Cool to the touch, and even cooler for business. :)

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